Day 10: Meeting Bruce

Today we had the priviledge of meeting Bruce. Bruce must be the primal Bruce - the one after which all subsequent Bruces were named and the person everyone has in mind when they think of Bruce. 

Bruce is wild. Or rather, he looks like someone who could tame a wild beast and survive in the Outback at least 7 times longer than a James. He is at least 6ft 2" tall, with red curly hair, a slight beard, and the face of one who has weathered many blazing hot Australian summers. He also happened to be our guide on a 4x4 trip around the northern part of Moreton island. 

The trip itself was quite an enlightening experience. Particularly since my expectations were of an island trip in one of the most developed countries in the world. Somehow, I managed to overlook the fact that this country also has one of the largest uncultivated, unconquered and hugely unpopulated spaces!! 

The whole continent cultivation only balances on the very edges with large cities and civilisation. (Although it is markedly heavier on the Eastern side.)

The 4-hour long trip along sand roads, through two small townships and hours of driving through seemingly undisturbed island reminded me of that. Australia is a place of contrast. First-world civilisation vs Outback. 

Sydney Opera House vs outlaw Ned Kelly. 

You are mostly allowed to drive on the beach, provided you stay within the speed limits (which are always well-indicated, and enforced by the beach Police!)

You can loose you driver's license for driving over the alcohol-limit, but if you live on an island, no-one raises an eyebrow if you open a can of beer when driving. Except of course tourists, craning their necks to verify they ARE in fact seeing a friendly local driving past with a BEER in hand!

My conclusion then on Moreton Island: if you expect lofty hotel foyers, rows of beach chairs, colourful umbrellas, waiters bringing exotic cocktails at the raise of a finger, and delectable cuisine you might be sorely disappointed. However,  if you bring a 4x4, snorkeling/scuba gear, a boat of some sort, a hat, and plenty sunscreen lotion.... it is an ideal destination. And of course, if you like historic lighthouses!

The lighthouse on the northern point of Moreton Island

Day 9: Sundivers, Beachwalkers and Tatoomies

For a few days after Christmas, the family booked to come to Moreton Island - the fourth largest sand island in the world at about 35km in length.

Location of Tangalooma Resort on Moreton Island

The most likely way to arrive is by the Tangalooma ferry, which, if you're lucky, is a 45 min trip on a big double-deck cat, or if you're not that lucky, a 60 min trip on the much smaller 'Express'. We were not that lucky. I almost kissed the ground as we docked, but the idea of sand between my teeth fortunately brought me to my senses in time.

The island seems to be a popular destination - for humans, birds, dolphins and even whales in the cooler months.
To the casual observer, the most common species on the island is the bare-footed beachwalker. It is certainly true that there are plenty of them here, but if you observe carefully, you would notice at least half of them are in fact red-nosed sundivers. Of these, a good number have already transformed onto red-necked and red-shouldered sundivers. It is best to avoid these and not try feeding or touching them, even though they appear quite tame. They are in fact a very irritable species, and best left in the shade until they loose their distinct red colouring.

The careful observer will also spot a good number of lesser-striped and even greater-striped tatoomies. 'Striped' as a descriptor for this species is in fact very liberally used, as the range of different patterns proudly worn by these is truly mind-boggling. These can range from tiny patterns on females, looking remarkably like flowers, to intricate woven and banded designs mostly seen on the front and hind legs. It is not entirely certain why they sport these designs, as no obvious function has been observed. Some speculate it may be a sign of rank and superiority amongst the males. Another popular theory is that it may play a role in courting. Urban legend even has it that members of this species are in fact the descendents of the now extinct convictus that once freely roamed in Australia. One of the mysteries that will remain...

Below a picture of what may at first glance appear to be bare-footed beachwalkers, but are in fact lesser-striped tatoomies. They are generally quite camera-shy, so sadly I couldn't get a close-up!

Striped... on the beach next to the wrecks